Skáidi, where the road branches to either Hammerfest or Honningsvåg,
by 15:00, I checked in the same crossroad hospitality center I bought a
hot dog two years ago. (Its rooms are spacious, comfortable, equipped
with a fully-furbished kitchenette and cheaper than any hotel in
Norway.) I napped soundly, intending to reach Nordkapp later for the
ritual viewing of the midnight sun. Alas, the weather and my strength
did not cooperate, and I stayed in for the rest of the rainy night to
have my dinner of pickled herring, lox, chorizo and tomatoes.
May 2003, Tuesday: Skáidi - Nordkapp - Honningsvåg - Alta - Kautokeino
lonely drive along the bleak coast of the Porsanger peninsula to
Honningsvåg would have lost all its stark majesty had it been crawling
with queues of coaches and campers, as it will be in a week or so.
Granite rocks break off in many thin layers, like pages of ancient